Closing Necktie with Slip Stitch

Stitches

I do not believe that I have found the best way to sew the tie closed yet. The slip stitch is the way type of stitch that should be used, but I do not know the optimal distance to run each stitch. There are a few possibilities, some that I have already tried, but there are many factors that could effect how well the six fold and seven fold tie drapes.

long stitches
____|____|____|____|____|____
____|____|____|____|____|____

short and long stitches
____|_|____|_|____|_|____|_|____
____|_|____|_|____|_|____|_|____

short stitches
_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_
_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|_|


Then these stitches could be modified so that the stitch do not line up exactly with the top and bottom layers that they are attaching. This might allow for the folds to stay in place better in case the slip stitch was not straight all the way down the tie. It also allows for less stitches to be made.

long stitches
____\____/____\____/____\____
____\____/____\____/____\____

short and long stitches
____\_/____\_/____\_/____\_/____
____\_/____\_/____\_/____\_/____

short stitches
_\_/_\_/_\_/_\_/_\_/_\_/_\_/_\_/
_\_/_\_/_\_/_\_/_\_/_\_/_\_/_\


And finally, another variation that doubles the stitching possibilities. When sewing the slip stitch, how many layers does the stitch go through? It can touch only the two layers farthest from the front or go all the way to through the interlining. If it only touches two layers, the tie has the possibility of being a little puffy. Getting a firm crease on the edges of each fold will help keep the tie flat though. But when sewing all the way to the interlining the front may bubble up a little because the folds are effectively sewn in place. The height at each horizontal section is set according to the interlining.

Problems

After closing the tie its pretty easy to tell what the problems are once you put the tie on. The most obvious problem that I had to deal with was making the stitches too tight. Before putting the tie on, everything looks perfect as you let it hang on your finger. But when you tie a necktie, everything will stretch a little. If your stitches were too tight and do not give at all, one of three things will happen. The thread could break, the tie could rip if the thread you used is stronger than silk (thats why cotton thread is recommended), or the tie will bunch up. Unless you pull really hard on the tie, it will most likely just bunch up. The Tie will stretch around the collar and pull the thread in this area leaving less thread for the rest of the tie which forces the rest of the tie to fit on the remaining thread available. To solve this problem, I always stretch out the tie around my neck before making the final knot in the slip stitch. The thread is loose enough to allow the silk to stretch.

Asides from bunching up, sometimes the tie just does not drape as well as you think it should. Ideally, it will drape as well as a single layer of the silk. The silk will not drape as well with multiple layers, but should not be that noticeable. The problem occurs because the edges of the fold do not bend as well as the rest of the fabric. My best guess as to why this is is that the edges are not pressed enough so that the tie moves as if it was just one thick piece of fabric instead of multiple layers with air between each layer. This is where the slip stitch variations may play a factor. Using a lighter silk will be more forgiving since it will just follow wherever the interlining goes. But the pain of using this type of silk is not worth it in my opinion. Its better to just figure out the optimal slip stitch for neckties and do it right.

Conclusion

I don't know which variation of the slip stitch to use yet. But I am leaning towards short and long stitches that go only through the minimal two layers of silk to keep it closed.